There is something about taking a month to redo a bathroom that makes you want to share every detail with the world, even with the knowledge that most don't care about your dumb project, lol. That said, I know I read many, many blog posts describing the process of doing the projects that I had in mind, since I had no clue what to expect, and in some cases, how to accomplish them. Every experience is slightly different, and everyone has a different opinion about what they like and how to achieve it.
So, here we go!
First, let's get a good idea of how the bathroom looked to start with. Note the discolored fiberglass one-piece insert - these have a gelcoat surface and over the years of people using abrasive cleaners it had areas that were permanently worn away on the bottom, and on the sides they were bleached and stained - no way to improve it. There were a few cracks on the edge of the tub, and the drywall at the top of the insert had begun to get wet and moldy - that had to be replaced, and was the thing that started this whole project.
Here we have a plain builder-grade mirror glued to the wall, and can/recessed lighting above. One we began working on to try and fix, but the wiring was shot.
The vanity is a cabinet that is identical to all of the cabinets in the entire house, bathroom and kitchen - they are the same oak finish ones you can get at Lowe's even today. The first thing I did was to paint the whole thing white and add brushed nickel hardware. None of the doors/drawers had hardware, just a finger-hold at the bottom or side edge of it to open it. It helped the room quite a bit just making this one change.
We started by removing the tub/shower hardware and cutting out the top of the fiberglass insert, using a sawzall. This part was fun. Sharp eyes will detect the outline of a matching fiberglass insert on the other side of the wall studs - that is the identical unit in the master bath! (Guess what's getting ripped out next? ;) )
Here's Busa, the German Shepherd Dog/ Great Dane mix, overseeing the project. He didn't give me permission to post his image, so I'm protecting his identity.
Because the fiberglass insert curved in at the faucet area, the plumbing had to be placed outside the stud wall area, and jutted into the tub alcove. Since we were putting in a standard tub we had to move the plumbing back in between the studs where it belongs. That's my closet beyond the studs - Rick had to rip out the drywall in there to access the plumbing. Charming little oversight when the house was built, no? However, it made things SO much easier to work on to have it all open and accessible. We have to replace that drywall and install a door for the future.
Plumbing rerouted and new drain assembly installed, since none of the plumbing matched up with the new tub.
New tub installed! This was not the easiest thing and required a lot of adjustments, but we got it in without damaging it, and applied mortar to the subfloor to hold it in place. This is not a fancy tub, fitting the standard 60" alcove, but it has an oval skirt to allow more room in the tub without requiring a larger footprint - a very nice feature!
Very heavy construction grade plastic was stapled to the joists and sealed to the top of the wall, and the edge of the tub with silicone. Then, cement board installed over that as the tile underlayment. It is very important to waterproof everything carefully. You think of tile as being waterproof but it isn't, nor is grout, even sealed grout, and eventually all the stuff under it will be exposed to moisture. We like cement board versus hardiboard because wet cement board does not change shape, while hardiboard swells and distorts. Just personal preference.
I finally chose and installed a new faucet after debating for days over which one to get. I love the design of this but the first one was defective. I returned it and opened the package first to be sure the replacement worked! It did. The opening to the cabinet is about 10" wide so I got bruises on my sides from lying under that sink 4 times (once to remove the old assembly, once to install the first faucet, once to remove the first faucet, and once to install the second. You do whatcha gotta do, right?
Here's the new tub protected with several layers of cardboard, using the cut-up box the tub came in. It is very important to protect the surface of the tub when tiling, since mortar and grout drop down as they are applied, and tiles and other tools get dropped frequently.
12x12 tiles going up! At $0.68 per piece we were pretty happy. They are a very light beige to match the solid surface countertop on the vanity, which I did NOT replace.
Liz's seemingly endless quest to find the "perfect" spa blue for the walls. None of these samples were it, lol.
Tile up and marble shelves installed as well. The tiles are ceramic, not stone, so I was searching for ceramic shelves, but the few available looked bad, since they are hollow molded and very bulky and rounded. I returned them and found marble quarter-round shelves that go with the tub and tile much better. Very simple and unobtrusive. Rick set them at the very slightest downward angle so water would not collect on them, but your shampoo bottle won't go sliding off. You can barely notice, but it is enough to prevent pooling of water, which is important. Grouting has begun!
Next comes replacing the flooring. Interestingly, we discovered why the baseboards in this room were only about 2" high. There was the existing sheet vinyl, luan sheeting, then ANOTHER layer of identical, pristine and perfectly preserved sheet vinyl (same pattern and everything) with another layer of luan beneath that, then the 3/4" plywood original subfloor. We have no idea why they'd install a floor then immediately install the identical floor, with the same vinyl material, right on top. The first layer was undamaged and looking like it looked back in the late 80s when it was put in. Weird.
A circular saw set at the proper depth and a heavy duty floor scraper had all of the old floor out, down to original subfloor. Then new luan sheeting was laid to act as new vinyl tile underlayment.
Waterproofing compound/primer painted on luan (it is dark green rubberized stuff, like contact cement but a lot thicker) and Liz begins her flooring project! These are adhesive tiles that are groutable. You need a good primer base and a very level surface for this type of tile, but it will be warm underfoot, not slippery when wet like ceramic can be, and is very easy to work with. That is a sunbeam on the floor - it looks strange in the pic.
I used spacers and then grouted, using premixed grout made for this purpose. I used a small space heater to warm up the room and allow the adhesive and grout to adhere better, since we were having a cold snap that day and the room was chilly.
I wanted beadboard wainscoting and I chose PVC boards, since this bathroom takes a moisture beating with two teenage daughters - lots of long, steamy showers. This stuff is great to work with and is glued up with Loctite or something similar, then we used a power brad gun to tack it in place here and there. It comes with matching baseboards and chair rail, all in bright white, though the material is paintable.
Here you can see how we used a conversion kit to replace the recessed lighting with pendants.
Here's how it looks today. We still have to finish caulking and I need to find some art for the walls, but the real work is done. I even found the perfect shower curtain, which matches the blue I finally chose for the walls (Sherwin-Williams "raindrop," I love you).
We will caulk and clean up the edge between the tile and the windowsill, and around the tub and I will install nice switch plate covers. Also, we rebuilt the windowsill so it would not clash with the chair rail, and once I sand and put a coat of paint on that I'll install brushed nickel hooks for towels, instead of a towel bar. Interestingly, the girls seem completely incapable of figuring out how to use a towel bar, so maybe hooks will be easier. Must be a generational thing....
The only thing I have not addressed is the window. I was planning a 2" bamboo (white) venetian style blind, but the only ones I could find are 72" long, which is ridiculous for a window that is this small, and the entire window frame is very shallow, so you can't mount that type of bulky thing properly inside the window frame. Something needs to be mounted on the outside rather than the inside. I'm now leaning towards a Roman type shade, but still not sure. I'll shop for some appropriate understated artwork, and I may paint a stylized tree scene on one wall, with a dark brown branchy form, with white/cream/pale yellow leaves. I saw something like this for sale as a decal, but I thought I could paint it myself. Chocolate brown, beige, soft yellow and white towels will look nice. I have a large soft yellow bath mat. I'm also installing shelving above the toilet in the alcove, since I can mount a narrow 2x1" wood strip as a brace and use melamine white shelves for a simple look to store various products and towels.
A few things we learned:
Use good paint. It is worth the extra cost. For years I have always HATED household painting jobs, and have avoided it, thinking painting was just not my thing. I was having such a hard time finding the right color blue at Lowe's and Home Depot, and I found the color I thought would be perfect at Sherwin-Williams, through online searching. I wound up using Benjamin-Moore, because they have what Sherwin-Williams doesn't have - you can order paint samples online and pick them up in about an hour at your local store. This is awesome! I did this several times and it was very convenient. This made me have some degree of loyalty to Benjamin-Moore, and I will admit I had THEM make up the Sherwin-Williams color, Raindrop, which any paint store can do, no matter whose color it is. Therefore, since I was in there anyway, I bought the white semi-gloss paint that I used on the wood trim like the window, windowsill, door frame and door, as well as the white semi-gloss kitchen/bath paint for the ceiling.
Prior to even contemplating wall paint, I used some Behr white semi-gloss on the vanity, which took 3 or 4 coats to cover. Eventually it came out nice, but that was one reason I have hated painting: inadequate coverage and the need to go back over walls and trim with second and third coats to get the smooth finish you want. Brush and roller marks, cutting in and taping off areas, drips, splatters and unequal coverage were things I thought unavoidable.
With the Benjamin-Moore paint I could have gotten away with a SINGLE coat on the vanity - it is that much better. I couldn't believe it. The wall paint went up without any roller marks, even though I broke the rules and cut in a day or two before painting the rest of the wall (it is always better to cut in just the wall you're working on, paint the wall, then move on to the next wall, so the paint blends better). You cannot tell where I cut in - it looks smooth and perfect. I have had to do touchups after caulking, and you can't tell where the touchups were done - it blends seamlessly.
When I painted the ceiling I used the white bathroom/kitchen paint from Benjamin-Moore, to resist moisture problems, and I was not looking forward to that job. In the past, me and the entire room would be covered in splatters and drips of paint from doing the ceiling, and I dreaded it. Just the roller going across the ceiling would cast the tiniest drops in a mist throughout the room, landing on me and the floor. Can't avoid it, right? With quality paint I got ZERO drips, ZERO spatter, and I did the ceiling in one coat. There was no mist of paint droplets falling at any time. It took about 10 or 15 minutes, tops. I was amazed! I thought I was dreaming, but soon realized it was because of better paint. All that dread for nothing. Then I was ready to paint all the ceilings in the house (not).
Nothing against Lowe's or Home Depot (I spend A LOT of time there lately!), and they probably have some expensive, high-end paint available, but I'm sticking with the paint stores for paint in the future. It makes life so much easier, the job is done so much quicker, and for the most part I didn't even use painter's tape or prep of any kind (other than wiping down the wall first). I didn't tape around the window, and just painted it free-hand, and with a good brush and good paint, you can run a straight line of paint down the edge without it getting on the wall. How easy is that? Good Paint Makes Home Renovations Easy. This is my new motto, and was a hard lesson to learn. Over the years I've spent so much money on cheap paint, being horrified at the prices of the better brands, but I'm done with cheap paint. Forever. I'd rather put up with the dingy old wall until I can afford better paint and quality brushes. No foam brushes for this gal.
Didn't think anyone could go on this long about PAINT, did you?
Tile Needs Level Underlayment. This goes for the peel-and-stick vinyl type or the ceramic/porcelain type. This is not something you should skip. Originally I was thinking I could simply stick the vinyl floor tiles right on top of the existing sheet vinyl, since it was ugly but in perfect condition, but once we saw all the layers that were already there, we wanted to get rid of them, and then the glue marks and staple/screw holes in the original subfloor were such that we just bought new boards to cover the whole floor, creating a very smooth and even surface. This matters a lot when you consider how long you expect your floor to last. You think at the time that it won't matter so much, but when the tiles start to peel up, crack or loosen you'll be pretty annoyed.
We suffered a bit of difficulty with the ceramic tile on the tub surround, even though we truly thought the cement board was smooth and even. Walls are never level, no matter how they appear. This translates very visibly to the tile. We were not as careful as we ought to have been about smoothing down the thinset used to tape over the seams between the cement boards. We ought to have really smoothed those down, because we didn't realize how the very slight variation there makes the tiles go wonky, and a wonky tile next to a level tile looks like crap. It took some work but we did get everything even, but next time I'll be more careful about getting the underlayment. It was after this experience that I started on the floor, and I knew better than to cut corners. Weeks down the road (even now) you forget the extra work you had to do, and are grateful you took the extra steps.
You Cannot Find Studs Through Cement Board. When we took down the old curtain rod we saw there were blocks placed between joists to support the rod, which was screwed through drywall, above the edge of the fiberglass insert. We made a mental note (hahahaha!) to mark the location of them so we would know where to install the new curtain rod, which would be directly on the tile since it was being placed all the way to the ceiling. We went on our merry way, and after the cement board was fully installed, seams taped and ready for tile, we realized we forgot to mark where the blocks were, or the joists. Now, you can measure where studs are, knowing how far apart they are, by starting at the corner of the wall and measuring in, but we were disappointed in ourselves for not planning ahead. We had never drilled holes into tile before and were very worried about cracking the tile drilling into it to put up the rod.
None of these things happened, and we wound up just eyeballing the placement of the rod. He asked me how high to place it ("oh, make it a little higher than the showerhead plumbing.") and how far away from the wall to place it ("oh, let's put it so it lines up with the edge of the tub.") When he drilled the holes, which took FOREVER using a masonry bit, lots of pressing down against resistance and dipping the drill bit in water to cool it down (sssssssssss) once he got through he came back with bits of wood on the tip of the drill. On both sides! Woo hoo! We didn't measure for studs or anything, but just got lucky. We were prepared, with very heavy-duty wall anchors, but we didn't need them. Whew!
When You Remove 1" of Flooring Your Toilet Plumbing Won't Match Up. This is somewhat minor but it is worth mentioning. We took out quite a bit of flooring and when we went to put the toilet back in, the plumbing to the wall didn't quite fit, with the pipe being too long. The whole toilet is now closer to the floor, so the small pipe had to be shortened. Not a huge deal but something to think about.
Also, the transition between new (lower) floor and the hallway carpet is slightly different, but we went ahead and used the same old transition strip from before, since carpet replacement is on our list in the near future.
I think that is about it! We are all delighted with how it came out, and are inspired to do more around the house, which suddenly looks extremely shabby. My own bathroom is now very difficult to look at, reminding me so much of how the hall bathroom used to look. No fair! The kids get the gorgeous bathroom and we get the crappy one. However, my husband and I have taken better care of our bathroom than the girls did in theirs, since over the years of them being toddlers and taking messy baths, being toddlers and a little destructive, and raising one teenager so far who was careless with her appliances and hair color, just to name a few things. The current pair of teenage girls have been warned about the dire consequences of carelessness in this bathroom, after all this work. It took us a month to complete, since we could not take much time off work, and had to use nights and weekends in between other obligations. The master bath renovation ought to go more quickly, since everything was installed at the same time as the hall bath, with the same materials, and now we know what to expect.
Comments are welcome!

























